Posted on July 29, 2026
In April 2026, Lois travelled to the glorious Okavango Delta. Here she tells us about her time at Kujwana Camp, getting to experience what luxury hospitality combined with top-class horseback safari guiding feels like. Prior to her arrival at Kujwana, Lois had spent five nights at Macatoo Camp which is around 40km further north on the western side of the Okavango Delta. You can read here about Lois’s time at Macatoo.
I arrived by helicopter after a 40km journey (about ten minutes) from Macatoo. I landed directly at Kujwana Camp; as I approached from the air the camp remained hidden among the trees with the first hints being the horses grazing out in the bush (accompanied by a loan male elephant).
Just reaching Kujwana is part of the immense adventure of visiting the Delta. Located in the South West NG29 concession, most guests arrive via helicopter from Maun (the gateway town to the Okavango Delta). The flight itself is spectacular, offering sweeping views of the delta’s channels, islands, and wildlife below setting the tone for a exciting safari ahead. The flight from Maun is around 25 minutes.
Arriving into camp by helicopter – a unique way to transfer and also see the Okavango.
If choosing the fixed-wing option, you will land at Xaranna airstrip where you are met by your guides and transferred by vehicle (or boat in high water) to camp. This journey can take nearly two hours but also offers wildlife viewing along the way as you journey through the delta. I took this option for the return transfer to Maun and it felt like the last true adventure before returning to normal life. [Update in July 2026 – this year the flood waters are so high that Xaranna is now inaccessible and so everyone is currently arriving and departing by helicopter.]
My fixed-wing homebound transfer on the last day at Xaranna airstrip.
I was greeted off the chopper by the wonderful Elen (horse manager) and Gareth and Alex (owners), and then shown through into the main area at Kujwana. I was also introduced to various members of the team who make a stay here so special. Smiles all round, and a fresh, cooling mocktail to help ease into safari life.
Incredibly refreshing mocktails and a welcoming smile. Basil was always on hand to make us comfortable and could create the most beautiful drinks and cakes.
The camp faces east and is set along the Xudum River. Waking up to this scenery and enjoying freshly baked muffins and coffee is something impossible to take for granted; each morning felt very special.
Male red lechwe spotted at first light.
The Okavango Delta is located in the north west corner of Botswana. The area normally floods from May to September; the floods caused by rivers gaining their waters from rains further north in Angola months before.
Although sometimes (as in 2026) there is such significant rainfall in the delta from December to March, that there can be floods earlier in the year making those splashy canters and spotting of red lechwe possible even in March or April.
Riding through the Xudum River, en-route to a lunch spot.
The horses at Kujwana are top safari horses and this is no doubt due to incredibly dedicated care, understanding and training given by Elen and the team of grooms at Kujwana. The horses live in one of the most natural ways a domestic horse could, spending their days as part of a happy herd, whether out grazing or being ridden in the bush.
There is a huge range in type/breed at the stables. They have around 50-60 horses in total at any time, and it is a mix of mares and geldings. The breeds include (but are not limited to) thoroughbreds, friesians, boerperds, warmbloods, Botswana ponies, and arabs. I had the pleasure of riding Song of Ice (Friesian X Boerperd), Red Pearl (Thoroughbred), Drongo (Boerperd), Dzanga Bai (homebred), and Lima (homebred) throughout my stay.
Red Pearl on look out during a snack break.
Trail saddles are used on all the horses who each have a bridle and bit to suit them. Elen explained they always review the tack after each horse has a rest period, taking things back to basics and only changing something if needed to support the horse as their fitness progresses.
Rides vary from gentle wandering through wooded clusters to longer trots and canters across open areas and flood plains. All the guides always ensured our rides were both fun and safe, whilst pointing out and teaching us about the wildlife. They were very good at seeing something in the distance, then deciding on a new course of action which would allow us to move closer without disturbing the animal. It is a sign of a great guide to get you close enough to be able to watch the animals in detail, but not so close as the animal feels threatened or wants to move away.
Watching wildebeest graze the delta.
As well as riding, Kujwana offers game drives and also mokoro trips when the water levels allow. The game drives allow you to get really quite close to some of the animals, allowing for better photo opportunities. The mokoros were so relaxing and I thought the most beautiful way to experience the delta (being actually on the water, with the reeds and grasses towering above).
Seeing ostrich from the game vehicle. I think they are so strange (and impressive) to see up close.
A sunset mokoro ride could well be a form of therapy. Incredibly relaxing.
The delta’s biodiversity is immense, and the range of grasses, trees, bushes, birds, bugs, reptiles, and frogs meant there literally wasn’t a moment that couldn’t have been interrupted by someone spotting something and excitedly pointing it out. We were lucky with many moments reminding us why being on safari is so enjoyable.
We had up-close giraffe sightings and marvelled at how slow their movements are but how much distance they cover with each stride; we tracked leopard prints which led to a fresh kill and then spotted the same leopard the next day; we floated through a sea of yellow butterflies as we made our way through the tall grasses; one day elephants blocked our river crossing and we had to find another route to our planned lunch spot.
Finding another way to cross the river after elephant blocked the initial route.
The plains game was abundant, but also well hidden. The grass was taller than entire herds of zebra in some cases; which could feel a little ominous as the grass rustled in front you before you could see what was there.
This young giraffe seemed very happy with us passing by. The oxpecker hard at work keeping its neck clear of pests.
The animals spotted during my visit included: zebra, giraffe, elephant, leopard, maribou stork, open billed stork, ground hornbill, impala, tsessebe, wildebeest, bushbuck, dukier, lechwe, hippo, painted reed frog, tree squirrel, skink, adder, python, hyena, vulture, lilac breasted roller, green pigeon, jacana bird, oxpecker, warthog, spring hare, plus many others.
A breeding herd of elephant spotted on the way back to Kujwana after our night at Fly Camp.
The guides are incredibly knowledgeable about all things which live in the delta. They are excellent at teaching guests not just to see the animals but to understand their behaviours and habitats. They also ensured we were always in the most beautiful locations for sundowners which might be at a remote watering hole or on the wide open plains to watch the sun drop below the horizon with a lighting storm in the distance.
Kujwana Camp is tucked away in a cluster of trees, creating a sense of intimacy and seclusion. The six spacious safari tents are arranged along the Xudum river connected by wooden boardwalks rather than sand which makes it easier to walk between the tents and the main camp area.
There are four standard tents (either twin or double) and two spacious Riverside Suites (which are big enough for a single bed for a child to share with parents).
I was in Rhino (a standard tent). It is beautifully finished and a great size. It has a super-king bed, a spacious en-suite and a private deck that allowed me to enjoy the morning sun and the afternoon warmth peacefully. Each tent is thoughtfully positioned, with different types being close to each other to allow families or friend groups to be conveniently close to each other.
This was my tent, Rhino. Ideal for couples or solo travellers, it is one of the furthest tents from main camp, providing a little extra privacy.
Fly Camp is totally mobile and leaves no trace once packed away. If you visit Kujwana for at least five nights between March and November, there is usually the opportunity to stay here for two nights during your stay. You don’t have to go fly camp if you would prefer to stay throughout at Kujwana and a stay at fly camp is weather permitting.
The camp is very beautiful and blends naturally with its surroundings. Each tent is spacious and has its own en-suite with loo, bucket shower and wash basin.
A perfect sunset as we arrived to Fly Camp.
I travelled in April and because of rain in flycamp we weren’t able to stay two nights. We still got to experience flycamp for one night, travelling there by mokoro, the traditional mode of transport in the delta during flood.
I was so glad we got to visit fly camp. Waking up here was truly one of life’s ‘pinch me’ moments – early morning bird song with soft, warming light filling the tent, and then remembering I was in one of the most remote and wildlife rich places on earth.
We stayed just one night and waking up here was truly one of life’s ‘pinch me’ moments.
Meals at Kujwana are incredible tasty, filling, healthy and fresh. The chef knew exactly what they were doing. All the ingredients are sourced locally if at all possible. Barbequed meat without Bush Pig Hot Sauce will never again taste so good. This sauce is grown and made in the Delta, but sadly isn’t yet shipped world wide
You are well taken care of with breakfasts, mid-morning snacks, lunches, afternoon teas, and three course evening dinners.
Breakfasts are a selection of fruits, muffins, yogurts, cereals and freshly baked toast. Lunches are dishes like veggie and fish frittatas or bbq’d items, a side dish such as rice, potato or cous cous, and always accompanied with fresh salads and breads. Afternoon teas with brownies and banana muffins are the perfect pick me up after a long siesta, and dinners are always served beautifully with wines.
Meals were taken in a range of locations throughout my stay; at main camp they were usually either in the ‘treehouse’ or by the pool overlooking the Xudum river, and we also enjoyed an amazing picnic lunch out during an all day ride. After lunch one day, a few of us swam in the Kudum river – with water lily necklaces and the warm breeze, it was a moment that will be remembered for a life time. Later, the elephants came to drink from where we had been swimming.
The camp fire all set up for star gazing over pre and post bush-dinner drinks.
Our picnic lunch stop.
Kujwana is a fantastic choice for riders or non-riders who wish to experience the Okavango Delta in a small, intimate setting with expert guides and remarkable wildlife. Its relaxed, personalised style, diverse safari activities and beautiful wilderness setting create an unforgettable experience both in and out of the saddle.
If you have any questions about a stay at Kujwana or would like to enquire about dates, please do call +44 1299 272 997 or email rides@inthesaddle.com
