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In September 2025 Lucy spent a weekend at Veláni Country Hotel in Crete, hosted by Sabine and Manolis.

With a direct flight from East Midlands, I arrived in Heraklion late Friday evening. Met by Sabine, the owner of Veláni Country Hotel, I was whisked through the mountains of Crete slowly climbing the stony tracks towards the hotel. Sabine doesn’t have to explain why taxis don’t drop off here and I can easily see why a sturdy rental car suitable for a gravel track is essential.

Taken straight to my room, I enjoyed a hot shower and the selection of nibbles left in my room; including a bottle of chilled Veláni wine. I settled in, already impressed and excited for the weekend.

I started the day with a leisurely breakfast on the restaurant terrace, overlooking the gorgeous views and wondering where the horses would take us this morning. The perfect start to any holiday.

Walking down to the stables, the horses are nearly ready – with a quick brush and saddlebags attached we walked down stony tracks and into the countryside. While chatting with my guide Marian, we passed the retired horses resting in the shaded paddocks just outside of the hotel boundaries.

Crete is so mountainous, with many routes and paths winding through the olive and cypress groves. Marian reminded me to take in the views, to “look up” and take it all in. For my first ride in Crete we visited the archaeological site of Lyttos, accompanied with views over valleys and where you see the blue skies touching the ocean in the distance.

With the perfect mix of paces back to the stables; it was lovely washing Alex down before putting him back into his stable, fresh hay waiting and his friend next door.

With 14 open-air stables bordering a shaded courtyard, the horses each have their own space. Finding bedding in Crete is near impossible, but Sabine and her team have invested in rubber mats, and more paddocks are planned. The rocky terrain of Crete doesn’t easily allow for electric tape and posts – instead the team have a 12-tonne excavator for the job, and wire fences to keep the neighbours’ sheep out.

After changing from riding gear and enjoying a quick sauna in my room (the Superior Wellness Suite), lunch was served on the terrace, with the other guests staying at the hotel. I love meeting people while abroad, and meeting fellow riders is always an ice-breaker. I shared tales of riding at home and abroad with a group of ladies visiting from America. They had enjoyed a week of Panorama Rides (4 hours riding each morning) and where sad to be leaving the following morning.

By the end of lunch, we had organised ‘happy hour’ at my room to celebrate their successful week in Crete.

On Sunday morning, my new friends continued on their journeys around Europe while I was introduced to Flamenca – an Andalusian mare with her thick mane and strong hind-quarters. Heading out in a different direction through Avdou village, Marian guided me through the local history and our route to Lake Aposelemis.

Marian explained that the lake was low since the last two winters in Crete had been so dry. Thankfully, the hotel has it’s own well providing water for the horses and guests. With the recent dry weather in Crete, I recommend a buff or scarf to keep the dust off your face. Saying that, you can trust the horses 100% over the rough terrain – they are sure-footed and sound. I thoroughly enjoyed cantering on a long rein, around corners and up steady banks, and along the lake. Being able to relax in and out of the saddle really makes this a special holiday.

I cannot finish without mentioning the food. The Veláni restaurant is a highlight in it’s own right. Sabine’s husband Manolis is an extraordinary chef with a real passion for traditional dishes; freshly prepared and beautifully presented. The tapas style service introduces something new with every meal; fresh breads, colourful salads, roasted meat dishes and seasonal vegetables… the variety of colours and favours I experienced in my flying visit was just a teaser.

It was lovely seeing the restaurant come alive on Sunday – local families from the village, obviously enjoying a return visit. Even guests from other hotels visit Manolis’s kitchen on top of the hill. Although the restaurant is in full swing, the peace and vibe of Veláni Country Hotel remains undisturbed – Sabine & Manolis, their family and team have created a haven offering relaxation, great horses and 5 star food for all.

If you have time, you should plan a 7 night stay at Veláni Country Hotel so you can enjoy everything on offer but shorter stays are also possible.

The Panorama Rides which you can enjoy all year (except not the hot summer months of July and August) are from three to five hours long. They are in the morning and you normally return to the hotel for a late lunch and a leisurely afternoon.

In July and August shorter Sunny Rides (approximately two hours) are available and these can be either in the morning or in the late afternoon.

If you would like more information or would like to book your holiday, please contact me directly at lucy@inthesaddle.com or by phone on +44 1299 272997