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When I close my eyes and think of Kenya, a slideshow of sights, sounds, smells and sensations come rushing back with such vividness and rapidity that it feels as though someone has pressed the fast-forward button:

Vast golden plains running endlessly towards the horizon.
Long, tussock-like grasses swooshing under my horse’s feet.
Wood-smoke-scented bucket showers beneath an African sky.
Wonderment at a tiny elephant calf sheltering from the rain beneath his mother’s tummy.
A herd of wildebeest cantering in an almost perfect circle around us.
Cheery calls of “Jambo” as morning tea appears at first light.
The unmistakable, strong aroma of a dead zebra brought down by lions.
Crossing the mighty Mara River – heart-thumping at first, followed by an enormous sense of relief and achievement.

The Maasai Mara Safari in Kenya was wonderfully, overwhelmingly special — an absolute dream come true. And now, whenever I replay that slideshow in my head, I find myself hoping that somehow I can keep those moments alive forever.

That’s the thing about the Maasai Mara. So much happens in such a short space of time that each day seems to stretch far beyond 24 hours. Our days were crammed with adventure, excitement, pure wonder and the sheer, breathtaking force of nature. It felt as though we experienced a whole week’s worth of stories every single day.

If I were to write about the entire trip day by day, this blog really would become a never-ending story. So, instead, I’d like to take you through just one day — a “typical day on safari”.

Except, of course, there was absolutely nothing typical about it.

So let’s call it a special day on safari…

First Light

Each day begins with morning tea brought to our tents at first light. There are biscuits on offer too. Soon afterwards a call of ‘hot water to wash in’ follows, and we watch from our beds as the water is poured out and steam rises from the wash basins. It’s a gorgeous morning. The watery grunt of hippos, which lasted most of the night, can still be heard, as well as the more delicate sounds of birdsong in the trees surrounding our tents.

Waking up at Mara River Camp is an assault on the senses. Our tents are spread out in a line along the river, each one with its own uninterrupted view of the water, and I’ve completely fallen in love with this spot. From the water’s edge, we can watch Plain Martins flitting low over the river before disappearing into the red-gold riverbank opposite. Below us, hippos splash, grunt and honk in the water, providing a raucous soundtrack to the morning.

Then there are those unexpected moments that make this place so special. Sitting beside the mess tent before breakfast, watching three hyenas come down to the river for a drink. Or catching sight of an elephant herd on the opposite bank, appearing as if from nowhere, lingering for a while and then slowly melting back into the bush like grey ghosts.

The magic of the Maasai Mara is everywhere. You can feel it all around you – the sheer, exhilarating pulse of being alive.

Morning in the Mara

After a light breakfast of tea, toast, fruit and yoghurt, it’s time to set off on horseback. I’m lucky to be riding Zulu, a gorgeous coloured gelding of about 15.1hh. He is the perfect safari horse – full of character, brave, forward-going, responsive and wonderfully jolly. His ears are permanently pricked and his eyes shine with anticipation. We start our ride by following the Mara River, and after a while we stop at a beautiful spot where the river widens and meanders. To our left a pair of Egyptian Geese come in to land, below us are huge pods of hippo and to our right lies a huge crocodile lounging at the edge of the water.

Next, we turn away from the river and head onto the open plains. Our horses are raring to canter and so are we. Off we go, swishing our way through tall golden grasses, then out further onto the plains where the grass is shorter.

Beneath some trees to our left is a small herd of Topi including some tiny early calves, and as we reach the top of a rise there are some giraffe calmly making their way across the horizon. There is such an intensity and vibrancy of life everywhere we look and we are constantly saying ‘I can’t believe I’m here’ to each other. Later on, we stop for a water break and there are herds of zebra and buffalo everywhere we look. We take plenty of pictures, but the landscape is so vast and open that we can’t do justice to the scene.

Brunch in the Bush

After around three hours, having had some fun trots and canters, Zulu suddenly picks up the pace – he has sensed we are stopping soon. At the far side of some woodland, head groom Daniel has been hard at work setting out a corral for the horses. The camp team are waiting for us in the shade nearby, having prepared an amazing bush brunch. Seated at a long table, we feast on Shakshuka, a delicious dish of eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, onion, olive oil, garlic and spices. It’s absolutely delicious and most of us have two helpings.

After an hour or so, it’s time to tack-up and set off again on horseback. As we leave the woodland, there’s the chance to pop over some fallen logs. Felicia, Lily, Tyga and I are keen and so are the horses – what fun! We return to camp by a different route and along the way we spot a big bull elephant cooling off in the water, as well as more zebra and topi.

An Exciting Afternoon

Back at camp, there is time to slow down and relax in our tents, or simply sit beside the river and watch the birds and animals come and go. These quiet moments are every bit as special as the excitement of the activities. They give us time to pause, to soak it all in, to replay the day’s adventures so far and, perhaps most importantly, to reflect on just how incredibly special this place is.

Before too long a delicious afternoon tea of fresh scones, jam and cream is served in the mess tent. There has been talk of some lion activity nearby so we decide to head off on a game drive to see if we can spot them. Setting off from camp in three vehicles, our car stops to admire some Yellow Necked Spurfowl, but the second car is not so keen and roars past us, impatient to get to the main event! We see an impressive male topi, front feet up on a mound surveying the area, and a beautiful Marshall Eagle in a tree.

Soon the light begins to fade and we pile out of the vehicles for sun downers. The sun slips towards the horizon, creating a pretty sky of pink, purple and orange. We sip our G&Ts and say ‘what a great end to an exciting day’. But Kenya isn’t finished yet. In the vehicles we’re handed spotlights (with red lenses so as not to disturb the wildlife), and head towards a small river. Not long afterwards we find two lions feasting on a dead hippo. The tough skin is hard work for the lions and they are making slow progress – it a sight both gruesome and fascinating.

Dinner Party

Back at camp there is time for a quick shower, followed by pre-dinner drinks around the fire. This evening’s feast begins with grilled strips of halloumi cheese rolled in sesame seeds – delicious. Seated at a long table in the dining tent, we tuck in to tomato soup with croutons, then grass-fed beef with courgettes and roast potatoes (or stuffed aubergine for the veggies) and finally a yummy strawberry syllabub. After dinner there is the choice of tea (chamomile, peppermint or homemade ginger), coffee, or Amarula – or all three!

Adventures Ahead

Tomorrow is a big day. Not only is it one of our longest rides, but we are due to cross the Mara River on horseback for the first time. We have a long way to travel, making our way south across Maternity Plain, with the iconic Siria Escarpment beside us. Gordie tells us we must ford the river with purpose, so despite the close presence of a hippo, we enter the water with determination and reach the opposite bank unscathed.

Having crossed the river, hearts already pumping, we’re immediately told to ‘sit tight’ as we enter an area favoured by lions. Sure enough, a lioness is spotted just beyond some trees. With Gordie keeping a careful watch, we press onward. As we move through the long grass, a lovely Lilac Breasted Roller joins us. We canter where we can, but there are periodic stretches of difficult ground, and some areas are strewn with boulders.

Time Stands Still

After about four hours in the saddle, we reach our picnic spot — and what a truly memorable spot it is. Ahead of us, the towering Siria Escarpment gives way to the sweeping plains of the Mara Triangle, stretching as far as neighbouring Tanzania and the vast Serengeti beyond. It is an extraordinary sight, but, as we are discovering, Kenya still has more in store.

As we approach the shade of the trees, a beautiful herd of elephant comes into view on our left, spread across a vibrant patch of green grass. Among them are several impressive old timers with enormous tusks.

There is something so moving about watching these magnificent animals in such an ancient landscape. For a moment, time seems to stand still. It makes me feel some echo of the past, as though someone else has been in this very spot in years gone by, and looked upon almost exactly the same scene.

A First-Time Safari

I can’t sign off without mentioning our lovely group member, Lily. A fabulous rider aboard the exceptional liver chestnut Geronimo, Lily was an absolute joy to have on safari. Always immaculately turned out, I jokingly accused her of texting Geronimo each morning to make sure their outfits coordinated!

Lily is also the founder of Gallop For Life, supporting women in the horse community who are fighting cancer. This was her long-awaited first trip to Africa, and sharing Lily’s excitement and emotion at those first wildlife encounters somehow made each and every sighting even more special.

Huge Thanks

Oh dear, I seem to have failed in my promise to confine this blog to just one day! And even then, I haven’t had space to tell you about our beautiful tents with every little detail so thoughtfully considered, the wonderfully comfortable camps and the amazing safari team, or the fabulous care and attention lavished on the horses, who are treated like true athletes. I haven’t mentioned the miracle of the resurrected hippo, or the time when a warthog popped out of a hole sending the horses spinning in all directions but Ruth, second in line, stuck like glue. Despite all my omissions, I hope I’ve managed to convey just how incredibly special this safari has been. From beginning to end, it has been an extraordinary adventure filled with memories to last a lifetime.

A huge thank you to Gordie, Felicia, Emma, Louis, Laura and the whole team for your warmth and wonderful hospitality. You have created something truly magical, and I feel so lucky to have experienced it.

If you are ready to book the safari of your life, then please don’t hesitate to contact me. You can call the office on 01299 272 997 or email abigail@inthesaddle.com – I’ll even fill you in on the hippo story if you like!