Posted on April 25, 2024
The Okavango Delta is often quoted as the “jewel of Botswana”, but what is it that makes it so special both for the animals that live in the area and those of us lucky enough to visit and ride there? Becky from In The Saddle writes:
The Okavango Delta covers between 6,000 and 15,000 square kilometres of the Kalahari Desert in northern Botswana. Unlike other famous deltas such as the Mississippi, the Nile or the Rhine, the Okavango never reaches the sea.
Map showing the location of the Okavango Delta in Botswana (screenshots taken from google).
The Okavango Delta is a vast inland river delta that is affected by seasonal flooding. Water travels over a thousand kilometres from the rain-soaked highlands of Angola before it spills onto the Kalahari sands and slowly seeps away.
When the floods arrive, the main channels of the delta weave their way around lush grasslands, reed beds, palm groves and mopane forest. During this time a green oasis is created – a haven for so much wildlife.
The flood waters spreading out across the desert. The areas of higher ground are made into islands during this time (photo taken at Macatoo Camp).
The floods originate from rain in Angola which has fallen between November and April. This flood water slowly makes it’s way through Namibia and into Botswana arriving into the Okavango Delta usually by late May. The floods normally peak in the Delta during July and August and start to recede in September.
Just to confuse a little, the time of year when the flood waters should be at their highest in the Delta, is actually known as the “dry season” because there is no rain at this time. Between November to February are the hottest months and the ground is bone dry. However, since this is when the most rain falls it is known as the “wet season”.
A group of riders travel through the flood water alongside a herd of buffalo. (Image taken at Kujwana camp)
Key predators such as lions, leopards, cheetahs and endangered African wild dogs find sanctuary in the Okavango Delta. As well as the predators, you can see herds of wildebeest, buffalo, zebra and various antelope species.
During the months of the flood migratory herds of elephant head for the delta. Over these months, the area hosts almost half the continent’s elephant population. Rhinos are even making a comeback as conservationists, fearful of their survival in South Africa, relocate them to Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
When the delta is in full flood there is plenty of water for all species of animal. This means that the herds can spread out. But on horseback you can easily traverse this wet landscape. The riding during this time normally includes lots of splashy canters. The Botswana winter temperatures also make it ideal riding weather.
Having said that the hotter summer months of November to February are also great for game viewing. Since there is limited water at this time, the game surround the remaining water holes making them much easier to find.
During the hotter summer months, when there is little water remaining, the game is much more concentrated. (Image taken at Macatoo Camp)
After the rains in Angola (between November to April) some predictions can be made about the likely flood levels in the Okavango Delta.
From Angola the water travels along various rivers including the Okavango River. Each day the water levels are taken at the town of Rundu as the water passes on it’s way to the Delta (see map below).
Map of Rundu showing Macatoo & Kujwana in the Delta. Image taken from Google Maps.
Taking the levels each day allows us to see how fast the river is rising and compare levels to previous years. As of today (24 April 2024) the water level at Rundu has increased 2cm since yesterday and is now at 5.51m.
Chart showing the water levels at Rundu (source: Hydrological services Namibia)
Each day the Hydrological Services Namibia releases a bulletin showing the different water levels at various locations. They also produce charts (like the one above) to show how the water levels compare to past years.
Looking at this chart above, the 2023 – 2024 levels (red line) are on the increase and looking very stable comparted to previous years. The 2019 – 2020 line shows an unusual flood year. However, it’s looking like this years flood should be a good one. The particularly heavy rains in Angola over the recent rainy season should mean that the flood waters stay around a little longer.
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For more information about riding in the Okavango Delta, please call us on +44 1299 272997 or email rides@inthesaddle.com.
thanks for the flood predictions.
How are the water levels developing early jun 2024?
Hi Rob, thank you for your comment. As of 30 May, the water levels at Rundu are dropping. However there is still more water than usual in the system so the levels in the Delta should stay high for a while.
What water levels will be like this September?
By September the water levels will be starting to fall from the peak in July and August. As the floods were good earlier in the year there should still be plenty of water around for splashy canters.
Will the water continue to flow in July, August and September 2024
I was in touch directly with Macatoo Camp in the Delta last night about this. They have had good levels of water for the last 7 weeks. Although not a big flood year, they expect the levels to remain high for longer due to the continuing volume of water coming down. This contrasts with last year, 2023, when levels by this time in July were already starting to drop. John from Macatoo thinks there will be good water into September, but by October the levels will fall as the flow stops and temperatures rise causing increased loss due to evaporation. One thing to be aware of is this is the status from one camp on the Western side of the Okavango Delta. The shifting nature of the channels throughout the system means it could be very different in other parts of the Delta.
Hi any latest updates on water levels in moremi and into khwai? State of roads and bridges currently? Thanks
Hi Nick, sorry, we don’t have data on Moremi and Khwai. They are on the other side of the Delta to the two riding camps we work with. You could try Botswana’s Dept of Water Affairs.
Do you have any information on the current water level in the Boteti river near Kwarunga as at the end of August 2024
Hi Susanna, my knowledge of the Boteti is limited. I know it’s the main water outflow from the Okavango Delta and it was dry for many years. Some of the safari camps on the Boteti offer boat trips when water levels are high in July and August which is promising. If you are staying at one of these camps I suggest you contact them directly for more information. There is a very interesting video abouth the Boteti River here Boteti River. I’m sorry I don’t have anything more specific.
Hi Susanna – I have an update from Moela Lodge which is on the southern bank of the Boteti at Kwaraga -20.39409, 24.48953 just before the river heads south to the Makgadikgadi. They are still waiting for the flood to arrive this year so it looks unlikely that the river will be flowing by the end of August.
Thank you for your information.
One more question: What is the current water situation in the Delta and what do you expect for the first half of October? Is it worthwhile to visit the Delta at these conditions? Thank you so much for your help!!!
Hi Lilo
Regarding current water, it depends where you are in the Delta. Can you be more specific? By October the flood should be receeding in most areas so there are less opportunities for water based activities, but it’s still a good time to visit. Some say the best time as the game congregates around the remaining water. It’s a good time for lechwe, buffalo, plains game and elephant. Sightings of big cats also good in October as they are drawn to the game around the diminishing water holes. It’s getting hot and possibly dry and dusty by October. One benefit of October is you money may go further, some camps have lower rates in October compared with peak season which is June to September.
Hi there,
What should i expect around the 13th of october around the oddballs area? Dusty and hot, or still some water available?
Yes, expect dusty and hot, hot, hot. Oddballs is south west of Chief’s Island in the centre of the Okavango Delta, by mid October water will have gone, mostly lost to evaporation and transpiration.